What will I see in Kanto?

Bandō (坂東, literally meaning “east of the slopes”, which referred to Ashigara and Usui Mountain Passes) is an old name for what is today known as “Kantō” (関東, literally meaning “east of the barrier,” which refers to the Hakone Security Checkpoint). The modern day Kanto region comprises 7 prefectures: Tokyo, Chiba, Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Saitama, and Kanagawa. About one-third of all Japanese people live in Kanto.

The Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage route brings travelers both on and off the beaten path. It begins in Kanagawa near a samurai battleground, dives through the “Thunder Gate” into the heart of Tokyo, carves into the cliff faces of Tochigi, pauses under 1,000-year-old Gingko trees in Chiba, and ends on the forested sloped of Mount Nago. Pilgrims will visit 9 temples in Kanagawa, 4 in Saitama, 1 in Tokyo, 2 in Gunma, 4 in Tochigi, 6 in Ibaraki, and 7 in Chiba.

Pilgrims on the Bando 33 have a chance to see modern eastern Japan through a historical, spiritual light. In Tokyo and its surrounding cities, you’ll walk the streets with a transcendent purpose. On mountaintops overlooking the sprawl, you’ll see views that once inspired Bashō.

How do I prepare for the Bando 33?

The first thing you must consider when embarking on the Bando Kannon Pilgrimage is your mode of transportation; will you go by bicycle? By motorcycle? Perhaps you’ll rent a car, hire a taxi, or book a bus tour? Will you opt to leverage Japan’s legendary public transportation? Or will you be one of the few to hike the route entirely on foot?

Most people and tours complete the Bando 33 out of order (it has been this way for hundreds of years). Like other long Kannon pilgrimages around Japan, the numbering of the temples was originally done to indicate rank (not to optimize for distance). One popular route connects the temples clockwise, circling the Tokyo bay.

Because the Bando Pilgrimage spans over a thousand kilometers, it can take a fair bit of time. Work and family commitments often push people to complete their journey in phases. Sometimes, a pilgrim will take years or decades to visit all 33 places. Other times -- especially if going via taxi or bus tour -- a pilgrim will finish it in one shot. There are no rules stating that it must be completed by a certain time.

Trip planning and budgets can vary widely depending on your mode transportation and how long you will take. Unlike the Shikoku Pilgrimage (where one can encounter long uninhabited stretches), lodgings and food along the Bandō 33 Kannon Pilgrimage are everywhere and easily accessible. Most pilgrims choose to sightsee along the way and spend extra time in and around Tokyo.

Prospective pilgrims should know that some of the temples along the pilgrimage charge an upfront entry fee (usually ¥200 - ¥1,000). These should be factored into their budget.

Like other pilgrimages throughout Japan, there is a tradition of collecting beautiful calligraphy stamps in stamp books. These cost ¥500 each, and are masterfully written by monks manning the “stamp offices” of each temple. Pilgrims are encouraged to wear traditional garb along the way -- we recommend this as well, as it adds to the immersion of the journey. The Kanto region of Japan is full of stunning urban sites, humbling nature, historical and cultural treasures, and world-class dining.

Before they go on the Bando Kannon Pilgrimage, a prospective traveler should be sure to understand Japanese pilgrimage etiquette, history, and culture. If you recite sutras, show deference, and respect the temple with your actions, you will set yourself apart from the tens of thousands of tourists whose only goal is to take pictures. You may even find some of the fabled healing for which Kannon pilgrimages are renowned.